First time at Maple for the season! And it's already too hot. Go figure.
Huge congrats to @ry_blenkhorn for getting his first 12a onsite! Which I missed because I walked away to pee while he tied in, and literally not even two minutes later I hear this guy whooping and hollering down the canyon 😄
What a man.
@jimthornburg Takeover Day 1 // [1/2] In the 1980s, I used to wear my lycra tights and tank top around Berkeley. I suppose it was a rebellious way to dress that was lost on most, but to climbers, it put me squarely in the camp of “rads” (as opposed to “trads”—they wore white painters pants). Rads were labeled such for bolting on rappel and rehearsing routes in a quest to open overhanging terrain that had been effectively off-limits due to the prevailing “ethic’ of the era—namely that climbs be established from the ground up, and that bolts were placed only from “stances” where a climber could perch on an edge on a low angled face and then have both hands free to drill a hole for a bolt.
By 1985, I had climbed the 3 lines (2 cracks and a slab) at nearby Mickey’s Beach at least a dozen times each. It was getting old. I couldn't help but wonder how it would feel to lead some of the overhanging faces to the sides of the cracks and slabs. We had heard about rappel bolting in Europe and so we decided to take the radical (and, at the time, controversial) step to start bolting some of the faces. For us, it opened a whole new world of climbing—one that was much more gymnastic and dynamic. It was an exciting time, and as the fun quotient went up, so did our commitment to learning this new style of climbing.
No sooner did the fun start did it also come to a screeching halt. Local State Park officials began to remove our bolts. There was no discussion or warning. It was clear that we had overstepped our bounds and were now being put in our place. "Oh well," I thought, “that's what we get for defying the laws of tradition.” I had no sense that there was a way to fight back. I was crushed.
At home that night, I decided to tell my roommate—a civil rights lawyer and climber 20 years my senior, about the bolt chopping. I didn’t expect much sympathy as my roomie, Armando Menocal, was most certainly a “trad” who had cut his teeth in the early days of Yosemite climbing and who had learned climbing from (then) stodgy organizations like the Sierra Club and the AAC.
To my surprise, Armando expressed a deep wealth of knowledge about the history and legality of fixed anchors...
10 38156 minutes ago
The weather here is like 2 degrees cooler than it has been most of this summer and y’all I am ready for post send dance parties with this perfect lady. ✨ Side note: I’ve purchased a new fancy camera and I cannot wait to get some shots of all you beautiful southeastern climbers! But mostly @lauramarie43 even if it’s just her studying on her couch.
2 3256 minutes ago
Moonnndddaaayyyyzzz. Emphasis on ZZZ. 24 days left. I have so much shit to do. Here’s @ashnm_ swinging and missing on those glorious, terrible finger pockets that we all love and hate on The Pearl.
@nicholasrhernandez captured this climber making their way through a crux traverse while trad climbing in the Trapps section of the Shawangunks in New York. #ILoveTheGunks
Tag us in your pics for a chance to be featured!
What a difference the sun makes. Since we’ve been in Jasper it has rained every day at some point until yesterday. We are feeling the pressure to make the most of our remaining time in Canada but when the weather thwarts you from your big objectives it’s hard to stay motivated. Waking up to the sun for the second day in a row has lifted the mental fog and motivation is rapidly building again. Jasper we still have unfinished business so we will be back. Thanks to @firstname.lastname@example.org@coka.nicola and @aerial_otter for hosting us and having adventures with us.
Holidays spent in the forest of Fontainebleau!
I’ve found my favourite place😍🌲
19 7264 hours ago
Proud of this one.
💎New Base Line (8B+/V14)💎
After a disappointing BBCs, it’s been rejuvenating to get away to the continent with @blochobbit, our first climbing trip abroad in over 10 years of working together. After watching Mikey compete at the Paraclimbing World Championships, we headed for the forest of Magic Wood, home of Europe’s best summer bouldering and this iconic line. On my first trip here I merely felt the holds and imagined the positions, putting down any idea of ever sending as ludicrous, the level was too high and I would simply never reach it. After 2 years of progression, I returned last year with enough confidence (and a worsening finger injury 😅) to try with some focus, but after not managing multiple moves in a couple of sessions it was returned back to the life list, a climb for a distant future. This trip, after a year of suffering in service of my climbing and what I hoped was a new level, I wanted to absorb myself in the climb and find out exactly what it would take to succeed. My initial expectations were that these 2 weeks would not be enough, and I would return in the Autumn with better conditions and specific training informed by my attempts this trip. In the end, it took just 3 sessions to piece it together.
I’m grateful for the opportunity to see a once impossible goal realized. Climbing for me is optimized by this process, setting out to achieve something pointless and arbitrary just because the challenge inspires you and devoting yourself to that end. In the end, it’s not really the send or win that matters, but what you learn along the way that you’ll carry with you. In that way climbing reflects life, and it’s a life I’m very happy living for the time being.
31 6044 hours ago
Alpine towers and wildflowers. That’s what Saturdays are made of.